Chapter 6 assembled 20jy02
The chief value of sauces is that they improve the flavour and appearance of other foods. Otherwise their usefulness depends on the ingredients chosen to make them. For example, milk, eggs, or cheese add valuable body-building foods; fat, flour, and sugar add heat-and-energy-producing foods; while the use of vegetable stocks and fruit juices can add vitamins.
Sauces are most useful in such dishes as Cauliflower au Gratin, where the addition of cheese sauce converts a vegetable dish into a main dish suitable for lunch or supper.
Making good sauces is one of the easier branches of cookery, yet it is one that few English cooks take the trouble to learn. If we did, I think it would go a long way towards improving our national reputation for cooking.
I have given the two main methods of making sauces in some detail. Once you have learnt them, any of the recipes can be made quickly and easily.
Most sauces can be made in advance and kept over hot water until required, and so you avoid having to attend to them during the last-minute rush of dishing up A small double boiler is ideal for the purpose, but a good alternative is to put the sauce in a basin and stand that on top of, or in, a pan of boiling water.
If the roux has been properly cooked, see #69,
-f ' SAUCE5 47
there should be no danger of a skin forming on top; but stir the sauce occasionally just to make sure it will stay smooth
To prevent a skin forming on Sweet Sauces made by the blending method, See #93, sprinkle a little sugar over the top.
The most common thickenings are flour, cornflour, custard powder, arrowroot, eggs, and vegetable or fruit purees.
To improve their flavour, all sauces thickened with flour or other starchy foods should be very thoroughly cooked. Five minutes is the shortest possible cooking time for flour, cornflour, and custard powder, and longer will improve them. After a sauce has thickened, you can put it over boiling water to continue cooking. It will then not need watching and stirring in case it should burn, and can safely have 10 minutes or longer cooking.
Arrowroot and potato flour or fecule are the only starch thickenings which are cooked as soon as they thicken.
The amount of thickening required depends on the kind of sauce and the way it is to be used. Not all flours thicken to the same extent - for example, 1 ½ Tbs. wholemeal flour, 1 Tbs. white flour, and 2/3 Tbs. of cornflour or arrowroot are about equal in thickening.
A THIN SAUCE is used for cream soups or for sauces to serve cold.
A MEDIUM OR POURING SAUCE is used for general purposes.
A THICK SAUCE is used when the sauce is intended to coat the food and stay on.
A VERY THICK SAUCE is used for croquettes and for some cake-fillings.
48 THE PENGUIN COOKR2y~o4nK
Quantities: Allow ⅛-¼ pt. of sauce per person.
|
Ingredients |
Thin |
Medium |
Thick |
Very thick |
|
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Fat |
1 oz. [30g] |
1 ½ oz. [40g] |
2 oz. [55g] |
3 oz. [85g] |
|
|
|
(2 Tbs.) |
(3 Tbs.) |
(4 Tbs.) |
(6 Tbs.) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Flour |
1 oz. [30g] |
1 ½ oz. [40g] |
2 oz. [55g] |
3 oz. [85g] |
|
|
|
(3 Tbs.) |
(5 Tbs.) |
(6-7 Tbs.) |
(9 Tbs.) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Liquid (milk, stock or vegetable water) |
1 pt. [570ml] |
1 pt. [570ml] |
1 pt. [570ml] |
|
|
|
|
(2 c.) |
(2 c.) |
(2 c.) |
(2 c.) |
|
Measures level.
1. Melt the fat in a small saucepan and stir in theflour. Mix well and cook very gently, for 1-2 minutes for a white sauce or until light brown for a brown sauce.
This mixture of fat and flour is called a 'Roux'.
2. Remove from the heat and add one-third of the liquid, which may be warm, but should not be boiling, as this is inclined to make the sauce lumpy. Stir until smooth, then add the rest of the liquid or enough to give the desired thickness. Return to the heat.
3. Stir until it comes to the boil, and then boil gently for 5 minutes or heat for 10-20 minutes over boiling water. If the sauce shows any tendency to be lumpy, beat hard for a minute or two with a small wire whisk. In any case, beating with a whisk improves the appearance. If the sauce is to be kept hot for any length of time it must be put in a double boiler or in a basin over a pan of boiling water. Be sure it is well seasoned before serving.
4. If it is to be served cold, press a piece of greased paper over the surface of the sauce; this will prevent a skin from forming as it cools.
N.B. When making only ½ pt. sauce use a little less than half the thickening: a small quantity of sauce is always thicker, because there is greater evaporation during cooking.
- SAUCES 49
1 ½ oz. [40g] fat (3 Tbs.)
Salt and pepper to taste
1½ oz. [40g] flour (5 Tbs.)
Pinch of nutmeg or mace
1 pt. [570ml] vegetable stock or milk (2 c.)
Chopped parsley or other green herbs
Measures level. Make according to the Roux Method, #69. Season to taste.
1 ½-2 oz. [40-55g] Margarine (3-4 Tbs.)
1 pt. [570ml] liquid (2 c.)
Pepper to taste
4-6 Tbs. flour
2-3 tsp. anchovy essence
Measures level. For the liquid use fish stock, or the liquid from boiled fish, or milk. Make according to the Roux Method, #69, adding the anchovy essence when the sauce is cooked. Add pepper to taste.
2 oz. [55g] fat (4 Tbs.)
2 onions, sliced
2 small carrots, sliced
1 ½ oz. [40g] Flour (4 Tbs.)
¼ bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Gravy browning if necessary
1 pt. [570ml] stock (2 c.)
Measures level. Fry the vegetables and fat in the saucepan until they are lightly browned. Add the flour, and cook until light brown. Then add the bay leaf and parsley and finish in the same way as for the Roux Method, #69. Strain before using, and add gravy browning if required darker. Season to taste.
2 oz. [55g] margarine (4 Tbs.)
1 ½ Tbs. vinegar from the capers
2 oz. [55g] Flour (6-7 Tbs.)
1 pt. [570ml] liquid (2 c.)
Salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbs. chopped capers
pp50-59
50 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
Measures level. For the liquid use vegetable stock, stock, or the liquid from boiling fish or meat. Make according to the Roux Method, #69, adding the capers and the vinegar when the sauce is cooked. Season to taste.
1 ½ oz. [40g] Margarine (3 Tbs.)
1 pt. [570ml] iquid (2 c.)
Salt and pepper
1 ½ oz. [40g] flour (5 Tbs.)
2 c. cooked diced celery
Measures Level. For the liquid use stock from the boiled meat and some liquid from cooking the celery. Rub the celery through a sieve and add the puree to the sauce made by the Roux Method, #69. Season to taste.
1.5-2 oz. [40-55g] Margarine (3-4 Tbs.)
3-4 oz. [85-110g] grated cheese (¾-1 c.)
1½-2 oz. [40-55g] Flour (5-6 Tbs.)
Pinch of mace or nutmeg
1 Pt. [570ml] liquid (2 c.)
Salt and pepper to taste
Measures level. For the liquid use vegetable stock, fish stock, or milk. Make according to the Roux Method, #69. Add the cheese just before serving, and do not allow the sauce to boil afterwards, or the cheese will become stringy. Stir until the cheese is melted. Season to taste.
2 oz. [55g] margarine (4 Tbs.)
6 Tbs. chutney
2 oz. [55g] Flour (6-7 Tbs.)
Lemon-juice
1 pt. [570ml] fish stock or milk (2c.)
Salt and pepper
Measures level. Make by the Roux Method, #69, adding the chutney and seasonings when the sauce is cooked.
p51
SAUCES 51
2 oz. [55g] fat (4 Tbs.)
1 tomato, chopped
2 onions, chopped
1 tsp. brown sugar
2 oz. [55g] Flour (6-7 Tbs.)
1 tsp. salt
2 Tbs. curry powder
Rind and juice 4 lemon
1 pt. [570ml] stock (2 c.)
1 bay leaf
2 apples, chopped
1 Tbs. chutney
Measures level. Fry the onion in the fat, and add the curry powder with the flour, finishing as for the Roux Method, #69. Add all the other ingredients and cook for 20 minutes. Strain and reheat before serving.
1½ oz. [40g] margarine (3 Tbs.)
2-3 hard-boiled eggs
1 ½ oz. [40g] flour (5 Tbs.)
Pinch of nutmeg
1 pt. [570ml] stock or milk (2 c.)
Salt and pepper to taste
Measures level. Make according to the Roux Method, #69. Add the chopped eggs and seasoning when the sauce is cooked.
1½ oz. [40g] margarine (3 Tbs.)
Salt and pepper to taste
1½ oz. [40g] flour (5 Tbs.)
4 Tbs. chopped fennel
1 pt. [570ml] stock (2 c.)
4 tsp. sugar
4 Tbs. vinegar
1 egg-yolk
Measures level. Make according to the Roux Method, #69. Add the chopped fennel, vinegar, sugar, and egg, and heat for another minute. Season well.
3 Tbs. dripping
Salt and pepper
4 Tbs. flour
Gravy browning
1 Pt. [570ml] stock (2 c.)
p52 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
Measures level. Remove the roast from the pan and pour off all the dripping, except the amount needed for the gravy. Add the flour and proceed as in the Roux Method, No.69, browning the flour slightly. Add gravy browning if a darker colour is required. Season to taste.
4 oz. [110g] butter (4 c.)
Few grains cayenne pepper
2 egg yolks
1 Tbs. lemon-juice
2-3 Tbs. boiling water
¼ tsp. salt
Divide the butter into three portions. Put one portion in a double boiler with the egg yolks and lemon-juice. Cook over hot water, stirring with a wire whisk until the butter is melted. Add the second piece of butter, continue beating, and, as the mixture thickens, add the third piece. Add the boiling water and cook for 1 minute. Add seasoning. If the mixture should curdle add 2 Tbs. double cream or 2 Tbs. boiling water drop by drop.
1 ½ oz. [40g] margarine (3 Tbs.)
1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. dry mustard
1 tsp. sugar
1 ½ oz. [40g] flour (5 Tbs.)
3 oz. grated horse-radish (1 c.)
1 Pt. [570ml] stock or milk (2 c.)
6 Tbs. vinegar
Measures level. Make by the Roux Method, No.69, adding the mustard with the flour. When the sauce is cooked stir in the salt, sugar, vinegar, and horse-radish, which should be finely grated - this is easiest to do sideways and not across the end of the root. Serve hot or cold.
1 ½ oz. [40g] margarine (3 Tbs.)
1 ½ oz. [40g] flour (5 Tbs.)
1 Pt. [570ml] fish stock (2 c.)
SAUCES 53
½ pt. [285ml] shelled shrimps or chopped lobster meat (1 c.)
2 tsp. anchovy essence
Lemon-juice
Cayenne pepper
Measures level. Make according to the Roux Method, #69. When the sauce is cooked add the fish and seasonings to taste.
1 Pt. [570ml] Brown Sauce, #72 (2 c.)
2 dozen small mushrooms
Chop the mushrooms, and cook them in the sauce for 5 minutes. For extra flavour the mushroom stalks and peelings should be boiled with the brown sauce& before it is strained.
2 oz. [55g] margarine (4 Tbs.)
Pinch of mace
2 oz. 55g] flour (7 Tbs.)
2 dozen mussels (1 ½ pts.) or oysters
1 Pt. [570ml] milk or fish stock (2 c.)
1 tsp. anchovy essence
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tsp. lemon-juice
Measures level Make the sauce according to the Roux Method, #69. Open the mussels as described in No. 283, or open oysters. Either canned oysters or mussels may also be used. Add the fish to the sauce with the flavourings. Heat for a minute or two without boiling. Serve hot.
2 oz. 55g] margarine (4 Tbs.)
1 Tbs. dry mustard
2 oz. 55g] flour (7 Tbs.)
1 Tbs. vinegar
1 pt. [570ml] fish stock or water (2 c.)
Salt and pepper to taste
Measures level. Make the sauce according to the Roux Method, No.69. Mix the mustard and vinegar together and add to the cooked sauce. Season well.
54 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
½ Pt. [285ml] medium sauce, #69, made with vegetable water or milk (1 c.) OR ½ Pt. [285ml] Brown Sauce, No.72 (1 c.)
Pinch of sugar
Pinch of mace
8 oz. [225g] chopped onion (4 small)
1-2 oz. [30-55g] Fat (2-4 Tbs.)
Salt and pepper to taste
Measures level. Stew the onions in the fat until they are tender but not brown. Cover the pan with a lid during cooking. Add to the hot sauce and season well. If preferred, the sauce may then be rubbed through a sieve to make it smooth.
1 ½ oz. [40g] fat (3 Tbs.)
2 tsp. paprika pepper
8 oz. [225g] chopped onion (4 small)
1 pt. [570ml] stock (2 c.)
2 Tbs. vinegar
1 ½ oz. [40g] flour (5 Tbs.)
Salt to taste
Measures level. Fry the onions in the fat before adding the paprika and flour. Then finish by the Roux Method, #69. Add the vinegar with the stock. Add salt to taste.
1½-2 oz. [40-55g] Margarine (3-4 Tbs.)
Salt and pepper
4 Tbs. chopped parsley
1½-2 oz. [40-55g] Flour (5-6 Tbs.)
For fish add 1 Tbs. Lemon juice or vinegar
1 pt. [570ml] stock (2 c.)
Measures level. Make according to the Roux Method, No.69. Add the parsley just before serving and season well.
1 ½ oz. [40g] Margarine (3 Tbs.)
½ bay leaf
1 sprig parsley
1 ½ oz. [40g] flour (5 Tbs.)
Pinch of mace
1 Pt. [570ml] stock (2 c.)
2 egg-yolks
1 small onion, sliced
3 Tbs. vinegar
2 or 3 peppercorns
Salt and pepper
Measures level. Make according to the Roux Method, #69. Add the onion and seasonings and cook for 10 minutes. Then add the vinegar and egg and cook for a few minutes longer. Strain and season to taste. Reheat before serving.
2 oz. [55g] fat (4 Tbs.) Salt and pepper
8 oz. [225g] onion, finely sliced 2 tsp. sugar
(4 small) 2 Tbs. vinegar
4 Tbs. flour Gravy browning
1 pt. [570ml] stock (2 c.)
Measures level. Fry the onions in the fat until brown and then finish by the Roux Method, No.69. Add the seasonings and vinegar at the end, and gravy browning, if necessary.
1 ½ oz. [40g] fat (3 Tbs.)
12 pt. tomato juice or 1 lb. tomatoes or 2 Tbs. tomato paste made up to 2 pt. with water
1 onion, chopped,
2 or 3 bacon rinds
1 oz. [30g] flour (3 Tbs.)
½ bay leaf
½ pt. [285ml] stock (1 c.)
½ tsp. sugar
Salt and pepper to taste
Measures level. Fry the onion and bacon rinds in the fat, and then add the flour and finish as for the Roux Method, #69, adding the bay leaf with the stock and
56 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
tomato. Boil for ½ hour. Strain before using and add the sugar and seasonings to taste.
This is the method used for most sweet sauces. The thickening is often cornflour, arrowroot, or custard powder, instead of flour, and sometimes egg as well.
Cooking time about 10 minutes.
Quantities, ⅛-¼ Pt. [70-140ml] per person:
Thickening for 1 pt. [570ml] liquid Thin sauce Medium sauce Thick sauce
Flour 2 Tbs. 4 Tbs. 6 Tbs.
Cornflour or arrowroot 1 Tbs. 2 Tbs. 3 Tbs.
Custard powder Generally the same as cornflour, but brands vary.
Egg Replace up to half the thickening with egg, e.g. thin sauce 1 Tbs. flour and 1 egg.
Measures level.
1. Mix the dry ingredients (i.e. thickening, sugar, spices, cocoa, etc.) to a smooth paste with a little of the cold liquid. This is called 'blending'.
2. Bring the remaining liquid to the boil in a small saucepan, and pour it into the blended ingredients. Mix well and return to the pan.
2. Stir until the mixture boils, and boil gently for 5 minutes or longer. If the sauce is put over boiling water it will cook without fear of burning.
4. Add any additional seasoning and, if fat is included in the recipe, add it after the sauce has been removed from the heat. Stir until melted. If eggs are used they should beaten slightly and added at the end. The sauce should be allowed to cook, without boiling, until it has thickened.
N.B. Where flour is given as the thickening in the recipes which follow, an equivalent amount of one of the other thickenings may be used instead. Where alternative amounts of flour are given, the smaller quantity is for use when the sauce is to be served cold.
SAUCES 57
2-4 Tbs. flour
12 oz. [335g] butter (1 Tbs.)
¼ tsp. salt
4 oz. [110g] brown sugar (4 c.)
1 pt. [570ml] milk (2 c.)
Vanilla essence to taste
Measures level. Make the sauce by the Blending Method, as in #93. Heat the butter and sugar together until liquid. Stir this into the hot sauce and mix until melted. Add vanilla essence to taste and serve hot or cold.
2 oz. [55g] sugar (4 Tbs.)
2-4 Tbs. flour
2 Tbs. water
¼ tsp. salt
1 pt. [570ml] milk (2 c.)
Vanilla essence to taste
Measures level. Caramelise the sugar and water by boiling together in a small heavy pan until toffee-coloured. Dissolve the caramel in the hot milk and make the sauce by the Blending Method, as in #93. Add vanilla essence to taste. Serve hot or cold.
4 Tbs. Flour
½-1 tsp. cinnamon or nutmeg
¼ tsp. salt
2-4 Tbs. sugar
1 Pt. [570ml] milk or water (2 c.)
Measures level. Make according to the Blending Method, #93, adding the spice with the flour. Serve hot.
2-4 Tbs. flour
3 Tbs. sugar
¼ tsp. salt
1 pt. [570ml] milk (2 c.)
2 Tbs. cocoa
Vanilla essence to taste
58 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
Measures level. Make according to the Blending Method, #93. Add vanilla essence to taste and serve hot or cold.
2 Tbs. flour
1 pt. [570ml] milk (2 c.)
1 egg
¼ tsp. salt
1 Tbs. sugar
Flavouring to taste
Measures level. Make according to the Blending Method, #93, adding flavouring to taste. Use hot or cold. For a thin cold sauce use half these amounts of flour and egg. Beat the egg lightly and add at the end of cooking. Re-heat without boiling.
1½ Tbs. cornflour or arrowroot
1 Pt. [570ml] fruit-juice (2 c.)
1 Tbs. lemon-juice
Sugar to taste
Measures level. The fruit-juice can be from bottled or stewed fruit or tinned fruit-juice. Make by the Blending Method, #93, adding sugar according to the tartness of the fruit-juice and lemon-juice to bring out the flavour. Serve hot or cold.
1 ½-2 Tbs. cornflour or arrowroot
½ c. jam or marmalade
2 tsp. lemon-juice
1 pt. [570ml] water (2 c.)
Measures level. Make according to the Blending Method, #93. Add the lemon-juice and the jam or marmalade, which may be sieved or not according to taste. Serve hot or cold.
SAUCES 59
1 ½-3 Tbs. cornflour or arrowroot
1 pt. [570ml] water (2 c.)
2 lemons, rind and juice
4 Tbs. sugar
Measures level. Make according to the Blending Method, #93, adding the grated lemon-rind to the water. Add the lemon-juice when cooking is finished. Serve hot or cold.
1 ½-3 Tbs. cornflour or arrowroot
1 Pt. [570ml] water (2 c.)
2 oranges, rind and juice
4 Tbs. sugar
1 Tbs. marmalade
Measures level Make by the Blending Method, #93, adding the orange-rind to the water. Add the orange juice and marmalade when cooking is finished. Serve hot or cold.
Add 2-4 Tbs. sherry to Custard Sauce, #98 or 111. Serve hot.
If fat is scarce or, if for any other reason, you want to make savoury sauces without fat or with very little fat, any of the recipes from Nos. 69 to 92 may be made by the Blending Method described in #93, except those where vegetables have to be fried in fat at the beginning.
Cooking time 1 minute.
Quantities for 4-6 helpings:
7 oz. [195g] light brown sugar (1 c.)
Pinch of salt
¼ tsp. vanilla essence
⅓ c. water
pp60-69
60 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
Measures level. Dissolve the sugar in the water using a small saucepan. Add the salt and boil for 1 minute. Add the vanilla and serve hot or cold.
Cooking time 1 minute.
Quantities for 6-8 helpings:
8 oz. [225g] syrup or honey (½ c.)
Rind and juice of 1 lemon OR Pinch of ground ginger
¾ Pt. [425ml] Water (1 ½ c.)
Measures level. Cook the syrup or honey and water together in a small saucepan and add the lemon or ginger. Serve hot.
Cooking time ½ hour.
Quantities for 4 helpings:
1 lb. [450g] cooking apples
2 oz. [55g] Sugar (¼ c.)
Peel, core, and slice the apples and cook in a saucepan with just enough water to prevent burning. When cooked to a pulp rub through a sieve, add the sugar and reheat. Serve hot.
8 oz. [225g] Cranberries (2 ½ c.)
4 oz. [110g] Sugar (½ c.)
½ pt. [285ml] water (1 c.)
Measures level. Boil the cranberries and water in a saucepan, crushing them with a spoon during cooking. When quite tender rub through a sieve. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Pour into a small mould and leave 12 hours before using. The contents will then turn out like a jelly. If a hot sauce is preferred, use enough hot water to make the puree the desired consistency for serving, like hot apple sauce.
SAUCES
Melt the butter in a small saucepan, allowing ½-1 oz. [15-30g] per person. Cook it gently until it turns brown. Then add ½ tsp. chopped parsley and ½ tsp. of vinegar for each ounce of butter and pour quickly over the food.
3 Tbs. mustard
1 ½ tsp. vinegar, malt, or tarragon
½ tsp. sugar
½ tsp. salt
1 ½ tsp. oi1
¼ tsp. pepper
Measures level. Mix the mustard to a very stiff paste with a little cold water. Add the other ingredients and mix well.
Cooking time 10-15 minutes.
Quantities for 6-8 helpings:
1 pt. [570ml] milk (2 c.)
1 Tbs. sugar
2 eggs or 4 yolks
Flavouring to taste
Measures level. Heat the milk to just below boiling. Beat the eggs and sugar together slightly, and pour on the hot milk, stirring well. Cook over boiling water until the custard coats the back of the wooden spoon used for stirring. Stir frequently to keep the custard smooth. Flavour to taste and serve hot or cold.
N.B. Care must be taken to remove from the heat as soon as it is cooked because overcooking causes curdling.
2 egg-yolks
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 tsp. Salt
1 ½ Tbs. vinegar
½ tsp. Mustard
½ Pt. [285ml] oil (1 c.)
62 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
Measures level.
1. Mix the egg-yolks with the salt, mustard, pepper, and 1 Tbs. of the vinegar. Beat well with a rotary beater or wire whisk.
2. Be sure the oil is room temperature and not cold, or the mayonnaise will curdle. While beating hard, add the oil j tsp. at a time, and make sure it is well blended in before adding more. When a quarter of the oil has been used add 1 Tbs. at a time.
3. When all the oil is in, add the rest of the vinegar.
NB. Great care must be taken to add the oil very gradually, especially at first. Mayonnaise curdles if the oil is added too quickly or if too much oil is used for the amount of egg; or if the oil is too cold. If it does curdle, beat the curdled mayonnaise gradually into another egg yolk. The dressing should keep well but do not put it in the refrigerator.
(This uses far less oil than real mayonnaise, and is therefore cheaper to make and more easily digested. It may be used in the same way as mayonnaise.)
3 Tbs. flour
1 Tbs. sugar
1 tsp. mustard
1 egg
Few grains cayenne pepper
½ pt. [285ml] water (1 c.)
4 Tbs. vinegar
1 tsp. salt
3 Tbs. salad oil
Measures level. Mix the first six ingredients together and stir in the water gradually. Add the vinegar and cook over boiling water until it thickens, and then for 5 minutes more. Cool and beat in the oil.
½ tsp. dry mustard
½ tsp. salt
Juice of ½ lemon or 4 Tbs. vinegar
SAUCES 63
Pinch of pepper
4 Tbs. olive oil
¼ Pt. [140ml] evaporated milk (½ c.)
Measures level. Mix the mustard, salt, sugar, and pepper in a small basin. Add the milk, lemon or vinegar, and the oil. Beat until smooth.
½ Pt. [285ml] Mayonnaise, #112 (1 c.)
1 tsp. finely chopped onion
2 Tbs. chopped gherkins or capers
Measures level. Mix well.
Quantities for 5 large bowl (salad for 4-6 helpings):
1 ½ Tbs. oil
Pinch dry mustard
Pinch pepper
½ Tbs. malt or wine vinegar
¼ tsp. salt
Mix the oil and seasoning and add the vinegar. Stir before using, as the ingredients separate out on standing. If preferred, a large amount may be mixed and kept in a covered jar. Shake before using.
Time about 5 minutes.
Quantities for 4 helpings:
4 Tbs. salad oil
Salt and pepper
2 Tbs. tarragon or malt vinegar
½ tsp. made mustard
1 tsp. each of finely chopped gherkin, shallot, and parsley
Mix well and serve at once.
64 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
Quantities for 4 helpings:
¼ c. chopped fresh mint
¼ pt. [140ml] wine or malt vinegar
1 Tbs. Sugar (½ c.)
Measures level. Mix the ingredients together and allow to stand for 2 hours before using, so that the flavours will be well blended. The mint can often be chopped more easily if the sugar is sprinkled over it first.
Cooking time 25 minutes.
Quantities for 4 helpings:
1 onion
1 oz. [30g] butter or margarine (2 Tbs.)
4 cloves
½ Pt. [285ml] milk (1 c.)
Salt and pepper
2 oz. [55g] Breadcrumbs (2/3 c.)
Measures level. Slice the onion. Heat the onion, cloves, and milk together for about 1 0 minutes, or until the milk is well flavoured. Strain. Add the breadcrumbs and cook slowly, without boiling, until the crumbs swell. Add the butter or margarine. Season well and serve hot. The sauce may be kept hot for some time, if put over boiling water.
There are many different recipes for making Mock Cream, but few are rich enough to replace cream in general cooking. The only one suitable for this purpose is the cream made with a cream machine or emulsifier. For real cream, see # 169.
Cream (using a cream machine).
Thin cream, 2 oz. [55g] unsalted butter or margarine
(4 Tbs.) to ¼ Pt. [140ml] Milk (½ c.)
Thick cream, 4 oz. [110g] unsalted butter or margarine (½ c.)
to ¼ pt. [140ml] Milk (½ c.)
SAUCES 65
Warm the milk and fat together until the fat has melted. Then cool to blood heat by pouring backwards and forwards between a jug and the pan. Pour into the [g p65] cream machine and pump quickly until all is through. Stir with a fork and put aside until cold.
WHIPPED CREAM. Add 1 level tsp. granulated gelatine to the milk before heating. Make the thick cream and, when it is cold, but not set, beat lightly.
66 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
Quantities for ¾ pt. whipped cream:
2 ½ Tbs. cornflour, custard powder, or arrowroot OR 4 Tbs. flour
½ pt. [285ml] milk (1 c.)
2 oz. [55g] margarine (4 Tbs.)
2 oz. [55g] castor sugar (4 Tbs.)
Flavouring to taste
Measures level. Make the cornflour and milk into a sauce by the Blending Method, #93. Cook gently for 5 minutes, or 10 minutes over boiling water. Press a margarine paper over the top and leave to cool. The paper prevents a skin from forming. Cream the margarine and sugar until white and like whipped cream. Then beat in the cool, but not cold, cornflour mixture a spoonful at a time. Beat thoroughly before adding each spoonful and flavour to taste.
CHOCOLATE MOCK CREAM. Add 2 level Tbs. Of cocoa to the cornflour. Flavour with vanilla essence.
Coffee MOCK CREAM. Add 1 Tbs. coffee essence or strong coffee to the milk. Flavour with vanilla essence.
1 oz. [30g] butter (2 tsp.)
Salt and pepper
2 Tbs. chopped parsley Few drops lemon-juice
Measures level. Work the ingredients well together. Leave to set, and then mould into small pats to put on top of the meat or fish just before serving.
Make in the same way as Parsley Butter, but use chopped watercress instead of parsley and onion-juice in place of the lemon.
2 oz. [55g] butter (4 Tbs.)
½ tsp. vanilla essence or 1 Tbs. sherry or rum
4 oz. [110g] Icing (¾ c.) or castor sugar (½ c.)
SAUCES 67
Measures level. Cream the ingredients together and flavour to taste. This sauce is served separately. When put on the hot pudding it melts and forms a Coating.
CUMBERLAND RUM BUTTER is made in the same way, but using light brown sugar instead of the icing sugar, adding nutmeg and cinnamon to taste and flavouring with rum.
2 oz. [55g] cornflour (6 Tbs.)
2 eggs
2 oz. [55g] sugar (¼.)
1 pt. [570ml] milk (2 c.)
Pinch of salt
Vanilla essence to taste
Measures level. Mix the first five ingredients to a smooth sauce by the Blending Method, #93. Boil for 10 minutes. Add the vanilla and cool before using. If this is to be used for a cake filling it is a good idea to pour it in a tin the same size as the cake and leave to cool a little before turning out on to the lower layer of the cake.
Add 1 Tbs. coffee essence or strong coffee to Recipe # 125.
½ oz. [15g] margarine (1 Tbs.)
2 Tbs. castor sugar
2 Tbs. cocoa
Vanilla essence
Measures level. Warm the ingredients in a pan and mix well. Flavour to taste and spread while hot.
4 oz. [110g] dates (2 c.)
2 tsp. custard powder or cornflour
4 Tbs. water
2 Tbs. syrup or honey Lemon-juice or essence
68 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK
Measures level. Stone the dates and heat them with the water until they are soft and mashed smooth. Add the syrup or honey. Mix the cornflour or custard powder with a little cold water and stir into the date mixture. Boil for 5 minutes. Flavour to taste.
2 ½ Tbs. arrowroot
4 oz. [110g] Sugar (½c.)
½ pt. [285ml] water (1 c.)
Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
Measures level. Mix the arrowroot smooth with a little cold water. Boil the rest with the lemon-rind and pour on to the arrowroot. Return to the pan and stir until it boils. Add the sugar and lemon-juice and use when cold.
Rind and juice of 2 lemons
8 oz. [225g] sugar (1 c.)
2 oz. [55g] butter or margarine
3 eggs (4 Tbs.)
Measures level. Grate the lemon-rind and strain the juice. Beat the eggs slightly. Put all the ingredients in a pan and cook slowly over boiling water until the mixture thickens slightly. It will thicken more when it cools. If required for keeping pour at once into hot, sterilised jars and seal while hot.
4 oz. [110g] margarine (1 Tbs.)
2 Tbs. strong black coffee
2 oz. [55g] cocoa (½c.)
1 tsp. vanilla essence
2 oz. [55g] castor sugar (¼ c.)
Measures level. Melt the margarine. Remove from the heat and add the other ingredients, beating well. Cool until the mixture becomes the consistency you want for spreading.
SAUCES 69
4 oz. [110g] Sugar (½ c.)
½ Tbs. lemon-juice
2 ½ Tbs. flour
1 egg
Rind of ½ orange
1 tsp. butter
¼ c. Orange juice
Measures level. Mix the ingredients in the order given and cook for I5 minutes over boiling water, stirring occasionally. Leave until cold before using. This makes enough for two or three cakes and will keep quite well in a cold place.
Pp70-89