Chapter 16 assembled 20jy02
pp 259-272
Sugar is chiefly a heat-and-energy-producing food. It is more easily digested than the other similar foods, the fats, cereals, and starches, and is specially useful when the body needs an immediate supply of energy. It also relieves fatigue after strenuous exertion. Unfortunately, sugar eaten in excess dulls the appetite for other important foods, which is a serious matter where children are concerned. If more sugar is eaten than is needed for the heat and energy we expend, the surplus is stored in the body as fat.
BARBADOS SUGAR. A fine, dark-brown sugar used in making fruit cakes and gingerbreads of certain kinds. Also used for sprinkling on porridge. The flavour is too Strong for it to be used for sweetening fruit.
CASTOR SUGAR. A fine, white sugar useful for most sweetening purposes, especially for sprinkling on puddings and fresh fruit and for cake-making, when it produces a finer texture than granulated sugar.
DEMERARA SUGAR. A coarse, light-brown sugar mainly used on porridge and for sweetening coffee. It is too coarse to be used successfully in cake-making, but may be used to sweeten fruit.
GLUCOSE. Sold in powder or liquid form. Generally used for medicinal purposes, and mixed with other sugar to produce a fine texture in sweets and icings.
GRANULATED SUGAR. A coarse, white sugar used for general cooking purposes.
HONEY. Used mainly as a spread, but may also be used in cakes in the same way as syrup and for sweetening fruit.
ICING SUGAR. A powdered sugar used mainly for icings and for sprinkling on Cakes and puddings for decoration. It is used in some kinds of cakes and biscuits where a specially fine texture is required.
LOAF SUGAR. This is granulated sugar in lumps convenient for serving with beverages. It is also useful for rubbing on oranges and lemons to obtain a slight flavour for a sauce or pudding.
MAPLE SUGAR OR SYRUP. This is made from the sugar maple tree, and is very much used in Canada and the U.S.A. The syrup can be used in the same way as golden Syrup.
PIECES. A fine, light-brown sugar used for general cooking purposes where brown sugar is specified in the recipe.
SYRUP. Used for a spread and for making cakes, puddings, sauces, and for sweetening fruit.
TREACLE. Darker than syrup, but can be used in the same way in any dish where the stronger flavour is not a disadvantage. It is a good source of iron.
JAM. Contains 60 per cent sugar, and can be used for sweetening sauces and puddings.
CANE AND BEET SUGAR. These are equally good for all cooking purposes, including preserving.
When sugar is heated, either alone or with a little water, it first of all melts or dissolves in the water, and then comes to the boil. The longer it boils the hotter it becomes, until it turns brown or caramelises, and finally chars or burns. Different kinds of sweets are made by stopping the cooking at different temperatures. Although these temperatures may be guessed at, it is much safer and more satisfactory to use a sugar thermometer. The same one is suitable for deep fat frying, see #157.
Different kinds of sweets are obtained by boiling the sugar and water to different temperatures3 and it is important to use the temperature recommended in the recipe if good results are expected.
THREAD STAGE. 230 F. [110°C] When a little syrup is dropped from the spoon a very fine thread is seen.
SOFT BALL STAGE. 238 F. [114°C] When a little syrup is dropped into a cup of cold water it can be gathered together in a small ball.
HARD BALL STAGE. 254 F. [123°C] As for the soft ball, but instead the syrup forms a hard ball.
CRACK OR BRITTLE STAGE. 290 F. [143°C] When the syrup is dropped into a cup of cold water it immediately hardens and crackles. With a plain sugar and water toffee this stage is reached when the mixture turns pale brown.
CARAMEL STAGE. 350 F. [177°C] The syrup turns brown.
If the sugar and water syrup is stirred during boiling it forms crystals, therefore all sweets are made without stir-ring after the syrup has come to the boil. Some syrup crystallises on the sides of the pan, and this can be washed down with a pastry-brush dipped in water. Lemon-juice, glucose, or cream of tartar is sometimes added to recipes to keep the texture of the sweet from becoming coarse and granular.
Fudges and similar sweets are stirred and beaten after cooking, when they have cooled to 1 10 F. [43°C] If a fine texture is desired, the sweets should never be beaten during or immediately after cooking has finished.
Certain sweet dishes, such as custards, sweet omelets, and fruit dishes, are improved by being glazed with sugar after cooking. This may be done by sprinkling with icing sugar and heating under a fierce grill until the sugar caramelises.
Buns and other yeast mixtures are glazed by brushing with a mixture of sugar and water as soon as they come out of the oven. To make the glaze mix 2 level Tbs. sugar with 2 Tbs. water and bring to the boil.
This is used for decorating cold sweets and cakes. It is made by putting the sugar on a plate and adding a few drops of the required colour. Work it into the sugar with the fingers and spread in a warm place to dry thoroughly before storing in a covered jar ready for use.
Rub lumps of sugar over the rind of an orange or a lemon until the sugar is well coloured. Crush, and dry in a warm place before storing. Use for flavouring puddings and sauces.
8 oz. [225g] granulated sugar (1 c.)
1/8 Pt. [70ml] of water (¼ c.)
Pinch of cream of tartar
Measures level. Heat together in a pan, stirring until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture boils. Boil, without stirring, until the toffee reaches the crack stage (290 F. [143°C]), see #597. Pour into a greased flat tin and mark in squares. Break when cold. To make nut toffee, put the prepared nuts in a greased tin and pour the toffee over. Almonds and peanuts should be blanched and roasted.
6 medium-sized apples.
Toffee recipe, #601
Wash the apples and wipe them quite dry. Fasten each one on a stick or wooden skewer. Make the toffee, remove from the heat, and dip the apples in quickly before it has time to set, twisting each one round to coat it well. Stand on a greased tray to set, with the sticks upright.
Roll marzipan, Nos. 603-3, into small balls. If walnuts are available, press one half on each side of the marzipan, but the balls may be dipped alone. Make Toffee, #601. Remove the pan from the heat and dip each sweet in the toffee, using a cocktail stick or a small piece of wire with a loop on the end. Place on a greased baking-tray and leave to harden. You must work quickly, or the toffee will set before the sweets are all coated.
Quantities for 24 drops:
4 oz. [110g] granulated sugar (½ c.)
2 ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ c. water
Measures level. Mix the cinnamon and sugar, add the water and cook as Plain Toffee, #601. Drop from the point of a teaspoon in small blobs on to a greased tray. Leave to harden.
¼ pt. [140ml] Milk (½ c.)
3 Tbs. cocoa
1 oz. [30g] butter or margarine (2 Tbs.)
Pinch of salt
½ tsp. vanilla essence
¾ lb. [335g] Sugar (1 ½ c.)
Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together, except the vanilla. Stir and heat until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture boils. Boil gently until it reaches the soft ball stage (238 F. [114°C]), see #597. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to 110 F. [43°C] Then add the vanilla and beat hard until the mixture is thick. Pour into a greased tin and mark in squares. Leave overnight before cutting.
2 Tbs. syrup
2 oz. margarine (4 Tbs.)
2 oz. [55g] Sugar (¼ c.)
1 tsp. salt
Vanilla essence
6 oz. [170g] cereal crumbs, #569, or sweet biscuit crumbs (1 c.)
2 oz. [55g] cocoa (6 Tbs.)
Measures level. Mix all the ingredients together very thoroughly and turn into a greased 7-inch tin, spreading the mixture out smoothly with a palette knife. Mark into fingers or squares and leave overnight before cutting. For variety a dozen chopped dates or nuts may be added to the other ingredients.
1 lb. [450g] sugar (2 c.)
¼ pt. [140ml] milk (½ c.)
½ tsp. citric or tartaric acid
½ oz. [15g] butter or margarine (1 Tbs.)
2-3 oz. [55-85g] coconut (¾-1c.)
Colouring to taste
Measures level Mix the sugar, milk, acid, and butter in a pan and bring to the boil, stirring until dissolved. Boil gently until it reaches the soft ball stage or 238 F. [114°C], see #597. Add the coconut and colour to taste or leave white. Pour into a shallow greased tin, mark in squares, and leave to set. If desired the mixture may be divided in two after the coconut has been added. Pour one half into a tin, colour the other pink, and pour on top of the first lot to make two layers.
8 oz. [225g] granulated sugar (1 c.)
½ Pt. [285ml] hot water (1 c.)
1 ½ Tbs. Gelatine
½ tsp. cream of tartar
Vanilla or other flavouring
Measures level. Mix all ingredients except the flavouring, and heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes. Pour into a basin and leave to cool to 110 F. [43°C] or until a skin begins to form on top. Then beat hard until the mixture is thick and white. Add flavouring to taste and pour into a greased tin which has been dusted with icing sugar. When quite set cut in cubes and roll in icing sugar. This may be varied by adding chopped dates, cherries, or nuts to the mixture before pouring it into the tin.
1 Tbs. gelatine
Pinch of citric acid
8 oz. [225g] sugar (1 c.)
Flavouring and colouring to taste
¼ Pt. [140ml] hot water (½ c.)
Measures level. Mix all ingredients except the flavouring and colouring and heat until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil gently for 2 or 3 minutes. Add flavouring and colouring and pour into a dish which has been rinsed with cold water. Leave to set. Cut in squares and roll in crushed and sieved icing sugar.
To make Creme de Menthe, flavour the mixture with a few drops of peppermint essence and colour a pale green.
ICINGS
The elaborate decorations confectioners make for wedding cakes are learnt by much practice, but it is possible to produce very artistic effects with simple home decorations. Sets of icing tubes may be purchased either with a forcing tube to match or you can use a cone-shaped calico bag with a hole in the end just large enough to take the icing tube. If you have not used these before it is a good plan to practise the design you want to make, on a flat plate. The icing can be scraped off and used again on the cake. Suitable icings to use are Nos. #614-21 or #624-5, and the mixture should be stiff enough to hold its shape, but not so stiff that forcing is difficult. For writing text, Water Icing, No.611, is the best to use, and a tube with a small round hole in the end. If you are not skilled in writing in icing you will find it a help to scratch the letters lightly on the cake with the point of a fine skewer or darning-needle and then follow the scratchings with the icing. In the same way you can mark the places for your decorations.
Ready-made decorations can be bought at most stores, and only require to be fixed in position on the moist icing.
The following are other useful decorations:
Coloured sugars, see #599.
Candied fruits.
Chopped or whole nuts.
Crystallised cherries and other fruit.
Angelica, green for stems of flowers.
Coconut, desiccated or shredded.
Chocolate shavings made by warming a bar of chocolate slightly and cutting thin shavings with a knife.
Coloured sweets.
Flavourings and colourings must be added very care-fully. The easiest way with flavourings is to tip a little in a teaspoon and add it drop by drop to the icing. Colours are generally stronger, and they should be added by dipping a metal skewer into the colour and letting a drop fall into the icing. Pale colours always look better than vivid ones.
When making orange or lemon icings use the juice for mixing, and also some of the finely grated yellow rind.
Have the icing thick, but so that it will still flow slowly. Place the cake on an upturned plate, with a piece of clean paper under to catch any icing that drops. Pour the icing into the centre of the cake and let it flow over the top and round the sides. Take a palette knife and dip it in hot water. Run it round the sides of the cake to give a smooth finish. It is better to leave the top alone, and it should be smooth with the icing which has flowed over.
If a glace icing is used this should be poured over, and not smoothed with a knife. If a butter or fudge icing is used it is spread on with a knife dipped in hot water. The surface may be made smooth for decorating or roughed with the knife or a fork.
Small cakes should be put on a flat knife or a clean cake-rack and the icing poured over. Have a clean piece of paper under the knife or rack to catch icing as it falls.
For putting a small blob of icing on biscuits or small cakes use a teaspoon and let the icing spread itself, or, alternatively, dip the top of the biscuit in the icing.
8 oz. [225g] icing sugar (1 ½ c.)
Warm water or fruit juice - about 2 Tbs.
Flavouring and colouring to taste
Measures level. Crush and sieve the icing sugar. Mix with warm liquid or mix over hot water. Add enough liquid to make the icing coat the back of a spoon without running off too freely. Beat well and add colouring and flavouring to taste. Pour over the cake as described in #610. The icing should dry with a shine, but will lose the shine if over-heated. ½ oz. [15g] (1 Tbs.) butter or margarine may be added for each ½ lb. [225g] (1 ½ c.) of icing sugar used.
Add to #611 4-6 level Tbs. cocoa mixed with a little boiling water. Flavour with vanilla. It may also be made by adding 2 oz. [55g] chocolate melted over hot water.
Make as #611, using coffee essence or strong black coffee for the liquid.
Quantities for the inside and top of an 8-inch [200mm] sandwich:
8 oz. [225g] icing sugar (1 ½ c.)
Milk, water, or fruit juice
1-3 oz. [30-85g] butter or margarine (2-6 Tbs.)
Colouring and flavouring to taste
Measures level. Soften the fat and beat in the crushed and sieved icing sugar, adding enough liquid to give the desired consistency. It should be thick enough to hold its shape for piping or spreading, but thinner to spread over a cake. Flavour and colour to taste. This icing does not harden on standing.
Make as #614, adding 2 oz. [55g] melted chocolate or 6 level Tbs. cocoa mixed with a little boiling water. Flavour with vanilla.
Make as #615. using coffee for the liquid.
Make as #615, adding the grated rind of half an orange and using the juice for mixing.
Make as #614 using coffee for the liquid and flavouring with vanilla essence.
Make as #614, adding the grated rind of 1 orange or lemon and using the juice for mixing.
Make according to #611 or #614, adding wine, brandy, rum, or liqueur for the liquid.
Make according to #614, adding ¼ level tsp. each of ground nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon.
Quantities for an 8-inch [200mm] cake:
8 oz. [225g] ground almonds
8 oz. [225g] icing sugar (1 ½ c.) or 4 oz. (¾ c.) icing sugar and 4 oz. castor sugar (½ c.)
2 egg-yolks
2 tsp. lemon-juice
Few drops almond essence
¼ tsp. rosewater
Measures level. Mix the almonds and sugar together. Add the beaten eggs and the flavouring and mix and knead very thoroughly. To cover a cake, turn upside down and brush over with melted jelly or a thick sugar-and-water syrup to make the paste stick. Roll a piece of paste into a circle the size of the top of the cake and roll strips for the sides. Leave overnight to set before covering with white icing.
Quantities for a 6-inch [150mm] cake:
2 oz. margarine (4 Tbs.)
2 oz. [55g] Sugar (¼ c.)
1-2 tsp. almond essence
8 oz. [225g] plain cake crumbs (2 ½ c.)
Measures level. Beat the margarine and sugar together until light and creamy. Add the essence and the crumbs and knead the mixture until smooth. Use as in #622 but do not put on the cake until a few days before cutting, as, unlike the other almond paste, it does not keep.
Quantities for an 8-inch [200mm] cake:
1 lb. [450g] icing sugar (3 c.)
2 egg-whites
Juice of ½ lemon
Water if necessary
Measures level. Roll and sieve the icing sugar. Beat the egg-whites and mix in the sugar and lemon, beating well until the mixture is thick and light. Use as described in #610.
Quantities for a 9-10-inch [225-250mm] cake:
3 tsp. gelatine
¼ Pt. [140ml] hot water (4 c.)
8 oz. [225g] icing sugar (1 ½ c.)
Flavouring and colouring to taste
Measures level. Dissolve the gelatine in the hot water. Allow to cool, but not set. Roll and sieve the icing sugar. Beat in the liquid gradually and beat until the mixture is thick and shiny. Add flavouring and colouring to taste. This does not set hard like Royal Icing. It may be used for piping. This icing may also be made by using granulated sugar. Boil it with the water and gelatine for 2-3 minutes, cool until it begins to thicken, and then heat until thick enough to spread.
Quantities for a 6-8-inch [150-200mm] cake:
1 oz. [30g] Margarine (2 Tbs.)
8 oz. [225g] granulated sugar (1 c.)
½ pt. [285ml] milk (1 c.)
Flavouring to taste
Measures level. Mix the ingredients together, and stir Until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture boils. Cook to the soft ball stage, 238 F. [114°C], see #597. Then beat until the right consistency for spreading. Flavour to taste.
Quantities for an 8-inch [200mm] cake:
8 oz. [225g] granulated sugar (1 c.)
Pinch of cream of tartar
Pinch of baking powder
¼ c. hot water
1 egg-white
Pinch of salt
1 Tbs. lemon-juice
Measures level. Mix the sugar, cream of tartar, and baking powder in a small pan. Add the water and stir until it boils. Beat the egg and salt until stiff and beat in the sugar syrup a spoonful at a time When half has been added, add the lemon-juice and the rest of the syrup. Put the basin over boiling water and beat hard until it reaches the desired consistency. If it becomes too thick add a little boiling water and continue to beat over the hot water. Unlike Royal Icing, this does not set hard.
Quantities for a 6-8-inch [150-200mm] cake:
1 oz. [30g] margarine (2 Tbs.)
3 Tbs. cocoa or 1 oz chocolate
2.5 Tbs. milk
1 c. sifted icing sugar
Pinch of salt
1/2 tsp. vanilla essence
Measures level. Melt the margarine and cocoa or chocolate over hot water. Scald the milk and pour it hot into the icing sugar and salt. Stir until the sugar dissolves and add the vanilla. Add the chocolate mixture and cool a little. Beat until thick enough for spreading.
4 oz. [110g] butter or margarine (½ c.)
Milk
Flavouring
2-4 oz. [55-110g] castor sugar or icing sugar (¼-½ c.)
Measures level Cream the butter and sugar until very smooth and fluffy. Gradually beat in cold milk until it is the required thickness. Flavour to taste. This is suitable for use as a cake-filling or for piping and decorations.