340 Grilled Bacon Cooking time 3 5 minutes. Gammon rasher 10-20 minutes, depending on thickness.

Remove the rind. With a gammon rasher cut the fat at intervals of 1 inch [25mm], to prevent the rasher from curling up during cooking. Grill fairly slowly until the fat is clear.

341 Grilled Sausages. Cooking time 15-20 minutes.

Prick the sausages well to prevent bursting and grill fairly slowly, turning frequently, until well browned. Serve with grilled bacon, mashed or fried potatoes, any vegetable, and apple, onion, or bread sauce.

FRYING

342 General Information.

As already mentioned in No. 306, only the most tender cuts of meat are suitable for frying. For suitable meat, see Nos. 306-11. You will also find general instructions for frying in the chapter on fats Nos. 156-7.

170 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK

343 Fried Beef Steak.

1. Prepare the steak as described for grilling, No. 333, except that there is no need to brush with oil or fat, and the meat can be cut in thinner slices.

2. Use a thick frying-pan and heat in it a very little lard, dripping, or oil. When it is very hot put in the steak and brown for 1 minute on each side. Keep cooking over a fierce heat, turning every minute or two. Cooking times are the same as for grilling.

3. Serve on a hot dish with any of the vegetables and garnishes given for grilled steak. The frying-pan is generally swilled out with a little liquid, such as wine, lemon-juice, or mushroom stock, and the liquid poured over the meat.

344 Fried Lamb Cutlets.

These are cut from the best end of neck, and all surplus fat should be trimmed off, leaving about an inch of clean bone. Beat the cutlets to flatten them a little, and then dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in deep fat as described in No. 157.

Serve with any vegetables and a sauce, such as Onion, No.87; Tomato, No.92; Brown, No.72; Celery, No. 74; or Mushroom, No. 84.

345 Fried Chop. (veal, lamb, or pork).

These are fried in the same way as steak, but the cooking should be very much slower, taking at least 20 minutes. After the meat has been browned on both sides reduce the heat and finish the cooking more slowly. It is often an improvement to cover the pan with a lid and let the steam help to cook the meat. When the meat is cooked, gravy may be made in the pan by the Roux Method, as described for roast meat in No. 80.

With Pork Chops serve: Mashed or fried potatoes.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 171

Onions, carrots, celery, tomatoes, or turnips. Fried apple rings, or tart jelly.

With Lamb Chops serve: Mashed or fried potatoes. Spinach, peas, beans, tomatoes, or mushrooms.

With Veal Chops serve: Mashed or fried potatoes, macaroni, or spaghetti. Tomatoes, carrots, celery, or beans. Tomato Sauce, No. 92; Apple Sauce, No. 107; Celery Sauce, No.74; or Lemon.

346 Fried Liver, Kidneys, Bacon, and Sausages.

The same rules apply as for grilling, see No. 338. Gravy may be made in the pan in the same way as for roast meat, see No. 80.

347 Escalopes of Veal.

These are very thin slices of meat cut from the fillet and are delicious fried, either plain or coated in egg and breadcrumbs. The veal should be pounded well to flatten it before cooking, and is then fried in butter, fat, or oil until brown on both sides.

Serve with any of the vegetables and accompaniments given for Veal Chops, No. 345.

348 Escalopes of Veal with Lemon.

Fry the veal in butter, without coating. Remove from the pan and keep hot. Add a very little hot water to the pan and boil hard for a minute or two. Then for every four escalopes, add the juice of 1 lemon and pour over the meat.

349 Wiener Schnitzel.

Coat veal escalopes in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in butter or hot fat. Serve with slices of lemon and anchovy on each escalope. Other garnishes sometimes used are olives, capers, hard-boiled eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes.

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ROASTING

350 General Information.

Ordinary roasting is only suitable for a limited number of cuts of meat which you will find given in Nos. 306-11.

An uncovered pan should always be used for true roasting, as, if the pan is covered, the meat is then cooked partly in steam, and is more like a pot roast or braise, see Nos. 359-61.

Basting is not necessary with any except very lean joints, such as veal. Poultry or game needs to be covered with fat bacon or basted well.

ROASTING METHOD 1

1. Place the meat in the roasting-pan and, if lean, add some extra fat or dripping.

2. Put the tin in a very hot oven ([250°C], 475°F. or Mark 9). Leave for 15 minutes or until the meat is brown. Reduce the heat to slow or moderate ([175°C], 350°F or Mark 4).

4. When cooked (for times see No. 351), lift out the meat and make the gravy in the pan by the Roux Method, as described in No. 80.

NB. If Yorkshire pudding is being cooked with the meat, reverse the process, finishing with the hot oven to cook the pudding and brown the potatoes.

ROASTING METHOD 2

The meat is prepared as before, but instead of going into a hot oven, it starts slowly – [170-180°C] 325-350°F. or Mark 3- and continues like that all the time. This method naturally takes longer. You will find the times given in No. 351.

Potatoes will not brown at this temperature. They should be parboiled, and then the heat increased for the last half-hour to brown them. It is advisable to cook them in a little fat in a separate tin at the top of the oven.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME

351 Roasting Time Table.

These times are for well-done meat, and can be varied to suit individual tastes. Beef may be underdone, but lamb, veal, and pork should always be well done, or they are indigestible. A thick rolled or stuffed joint will always take longer than a thin joint such as loin.

The times are correct for joints between 3 and 8 lb [1350-3600g].

With joints weighing less than 3 lb. [1350g] you should allow at least 1½ hours for Method 1 and at least 2 hours for Method 2.

Very small joints are not really satisfactory roasted, and I would advise instead Braising, No. 361, or Pot Roasting, No. 360.

352 What to Serve with Roast Meat, Poultry, Game.

BEEF. Roast or boiled potatoes. Any green vegetables. Baked parsnips, marrow, pumpkin. Brown Gravy, No.

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80 Horse-radish Sauce, No. 82; Yorkshire Pudding, No. 758.

LAMB OR MUTTON. Roast or boiled potatoes. Any vegetable. Mashed turnips or swedes. Savoury stuffing. Currant jelly. Brown Gravy, No. 80; Onion Sauce, No. 87.

PORK. Boiled, roast, or mashed potatoes. Any green vegetable. Celery, onions, tomatoes. Brown gravy. Sage and Onion Stuffing, No. 140. Baked or fried apples or Apple Sauce, No. 107; Cranberry Sauce, No. 108. Tart jelly.

VEAL. Boiled, roast, or mashed potatoes. Spinach, tomatoes, onions, or beetroot. Veal Forcemeat, No. 142; Brown Gravy, No. 80. Boiled or grilled bacon or salt pork.

CHICKEN. Mashed, fried, or roast potatoes. Cauliflower, celery, peas, beans, onions, watercress, green salad. Stuffing, No. 142. Currant jelly. Bread Sauce, No. 118; Brown Gravy, No. 80. Bacon rolls.

DUCKLING OR DUCK. Boiled or roast potatoes. Peas, carrots, turnips, orange salad. Apple Sauce, No. 107; Sage and Onion Stuffing, No. 140; or Veal Stuffing, No.142. Tart jelly.

GOOSE. Roast or boiled potatoes. Any green vegetable. Onions or carrots. Sage and Onion Stuffing, No. 140; or Apple and Prune Stuffing, No. 139. Apple Sauce, No. 107; Brown Gravy, No. 80; Currant jelly.

Cranberry Sauce, No. 108.

RABBIT OR HARE. Roast or boiled potatoes. Any green vegetable. Onions, carrots. Red-currant jelly. Brown Gravy, No. 80. Savoury stuffing.

TURKEY. Boiled, fried, or roast potatoes. Onions, peas, pumpkin, sprouts. Sausages. Grilled bacon rolls. Cranberry Sauce, No. 108; Brown Gravy, No. 80.

Stuffing, No.141; Bread Sauce, No. 119; Celery Sauce, No. 74.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 175

GAME. Any of the accompaniments already given for poultry. Game is not usually stuffed for roasting.

VENISON. Any potatoes and vegetables. Brown Gravy, No. 80. Red-currant jelly.

353 Reheating Roast Meat.

Slice the cold meat very thinly, and place the pieces overlapping on a hot dish. Pour over well-seasoned boiling gravy or sauce. There will be sufficient heat in the sauce to warm the meat. The flavour is spoiled if meat is re-cooked.

354 Roast Stuffed Veal.

The most suitable cuts to use are the loin or shoulder, which should be boned. Veal Forcemeat, No. 142, gives the best flavour. The stuffed loin should be skewered or tied into a roll.

Another method of stuffing loin is to separate the meat from the bone just enough to make a pocket for the stuffing. Fasten up the opening.

355 Roast Stuffed Pork.

The most suitable cuts to use are loin or leg. Sage and Onion Stuffing, No.140, is the usual one, but Celery Stuffing, No. 135, is also very good. The leg should be boned for stuffing, but the loin can be boned or not as described for Veal, No. 354. To make crisp Crackling, rub salt into the skin before roasting.

356 Roast Stuffed Lamb.

The most suitable cuts are loin, leg, or shoulder. The following stuffings are the best: Veal Forcemeat, No.142, or Mint or Watercress, No. 138. The joint is usually boned for stuffing, but the loin may be treated as for Veal, No. 354.

176 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK

357 Savoury Roast Pork.

Score the skin of a 4-lb. [1800g] roast in lines ¼ inch apart. Mix the following seasonings together, and rub them well into the pork before roasting in the usual way:

Measures level.

½ tsp. powdered sage

½ tsp. pepper

½ tsp. dry mustard

1 finely chopped onion

½ tsp. salt

358 Roasting a Boiling Fowl.

Stuff in the usual way, and then roast in a very hot oven, 500 F. [260°C] or Mark 10, until brown. Then steam for 1-2 hours or pressure cook for 15-20 minutes, or until tender. Keep the roasting-pan and fat to make the gravy by the Roux Method as in No. 80.

POT ROASTING AND BRAISING

359 General Information.

These are both useful methods for treating a joint which is not sufficiently tender for ordinary roasting. For suitable cuts, see Nos. 306-11. They are also very useful ways of cooking the not-so-young game and poultry, or for steaks and chops, especially those which require thorough cooking, such as veal or pork chops.

Although both pot roasting and braising were originally carried out in saucepans on top of the stove, they may equally well be done in a slow oven. In both cases the meat is browned in a little fat, and then cooked slowly with the lid on. If you want to cook it in the oven and have no casserole which will stand frying heat, brown the meat in a frying-pan, and then transfer it to the casserole. If cooking is done on the top of the stove, a heavy pan must be used, otherwise the meat will stick and burn.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 177

Using a covered roasting pan and roasting by Method 1, No. 350, gives very similar results to pot roasting.

360 Pot Roasting. Temperature 325-350 F. [163-177°C] Mark 3.

1. Melt enough fat to cover the bottom of the pan.

Then fry the meat over a good heat until it is well browned.

2. Put on the lid, which should be a good fit, and reduce the heat. Cook slowly until tender, turning the joint over occasionally. Allow the same times as for Roasting, Method 2, No. 350, with a minimum time of 2 hours for joints weighing less than 3 lb [1350g]. Potatoes and vegetables may be cooked round the meat but will not brown.

3. Lift out the meat and pour off surplus fat, making the gravy by the Roux Method, as described in No. 80.

Serve with any of the accompaniments given for Roast Meat, No. 352.

361 Braising. Temperature 325-350 F. [163-177°C] Mark 3.

1. Begin by trimming off all surplus fat. You can render this down as described in No. 145. The reason for cutting off the fat is to avoid having the finished dish too greasy which would make it unappetising and indigestible.

2. Peel, and dice or slice enough vegetables to make a layer about 2 inches thick, on the bottom of the pan. If you want the dish to have a special flavour, use just one vegetable alone, for example, onions or tomatoes; or use a mixture of vegetables such as onions, carrots, celery, turnips, tomatoes, parsnips, peas, and swedes.

3. Heat enough fat to cover the bottom of the saucepan. Put in the meat and cook over a good heat until it is brown all over.

4. Lift out the meat and fry the vegetables until they are slightly browned. Then pour off any fat.

178 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK

5. Put the meat on the bed of vegetables and add just enough stock to moisten, or to come almost level with the top of the layer of vegetables. Add salt and pepper and herbs such as bay leaf, sprig of parsley, and thyme, or their equivalent in dried herbs.

6. Put on a lid which fits tightly, and cook very gently until the meat is tender. The times are the same as for Roasting, Method 2, No. 350, with a minimum time of 2 hours for a joint weighing less than 3 lb. [1350g], ¾-1 hour for chops, 1½-2 hours for pieces of steak.

7. Braised meat looks best if cut in slices and arranged on a dish with the vegetables round it. Put in a warm place while the gravy is prepared. First skim off as much fat as possible. The liquid may then be used as it is or thickened with flour by the Blending Method, see No. 93. Colour with gravy browning according to taste. The same vegetables and accompaniments as for Roast Meat, No. 352, are suitable for braised meat, game, or poultry.

362 Spanish Cutlets. Cooking time ½-¾ hour.

Temperature 350 F. [163°C] Mark 4.

Quantities for 4 helpings:

1 oz. [15g] dripping (2 Tbs.)

1 onion, sliced

4 lamb cutlets

1 lb. [450g] tomatoes, sliced

Salt and pepper

8 small sausages

1 rasher bacon, chopped

Trim the cutlets, removing as much fat as possible. Fry brown in the dripping. Place in a casserole and season with salt and pepper. Fry the onion and bacon in the same fat and, when the onion begins to brown, add the tomatoes. Cook for 10 minutes. Add to the cutlets and cook in a moderate oven for ½ hour, with the lid on the casserole. Bake the sausages separately and serve with the meat and tomatoes. Serve with baked or mashed potatoes.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 179

363 Spiced Steak. Cooking time 1½ hours.

Temperature 325 F. [163°C] Mark 3.

Quantities for 3-4 helpings:

1 lb. [450g] beef steak

1 onion, sliced

Salt and pepper

¼ bay leaf

1 oz. [15g] dripping (2 Tbs.)

½ tsp. grated nutmeg

Measures level. Beat the steak well to flatten it, and then season with salt and pepper. Fry in the dripping until well browned on both sides. Add the onion, bay leaf, and nutmeg. Cover with a fitting lid and cook slowly for 1½ hours. If necessary, add a very little water during cooking.

Cooking may be in the oven or on top. Serve with mashed potatoes and any green vegetable.

364 Braised Chicken. Cooking time 1½ hours.

Temperature 350 F. [163°C] Mark 4.

Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

1 chicken

1 tsp. salt

2 oz. [55g] butter (4 Tbs.)

¼ tsp. pepper

Measures level. Clean and truss the chicken, see No. 313. Melt the butter in a casserole. When hot add the chicken, and fry until brown all over. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Cover and cook gently until tender. Cook the chicken lying on its side and turn two or three times during cooking. Pour the juice and butter over the chicken before serving. The best way of serving is to carve the chicken and arrange it on a large platter before pouring over the juice. Serve with green peas and new potatoes.

MINCED MEAT

365 General Information.

Mincing is a very useful way of making tough meat tender without long, slow cooking. The mincer breaks up

180 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK

tough connective tissue, making the meat easy to chew. An interesting fact about mincing is that the smaller the meat is minced the less natural flavour it has. On the other hand, fine mincing makes a smoother and more tender mixture, and herbs and seasoning can be added for flavour. Even with the cheapest cuts of meat, twice through the meat mincer is about right. If the meat has thick streaks of gristle in it, these should be cut out before mincing.

One kind of meat can be used alone, or a mixture of two or more kinds. Fat bacon goes very well with beef and veal, and a mixture of beef, pork, and veal is very good. Liver, heart, sausage, etc., may also be mixed with the meat to make up the weight.

366 Minced Meat. Cooking time 15 minutes or longer depending on how used.

Quantities for 4-6 helpings:

1 lb. [450g] lean raw meat (see No. 365)

1 tsp. ground mace

4 Tbs. milk or water

1 c. fresh breadcrumbs or 4 Tbs. dried crumbs

Chopped or dried herbs (marjoram, basil, savory, thyme, etc.) to taste

1 tsp. salt

¼ tsp. pepper

2 Tbs. onion, chopped and fried

Measures level.

1. Put the meat once or twice through the mincer, or until it is fine enough to hold together smoothly.

2. Add the bread and flavourings. There is no need to fry the onion first if the meat is to be cooked in a loaf or mould for some time, although frying does improve the flavour. It is essential to fry the onion for meat cakes and meat balls, as otherwise it will not cook in time and there will be raw onion in the middle of the meat cake. Flavourings can be added according to taste, and any fresh

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 181

or dried herbs are suitable, also spices, which can be blended to give individual flavours, or a minute speck of garlic.

3. Mix well, using a wooden spoon, and working until the mixture is smooth, adding liquid as needed. The mixture should be moist without being difficult to handle.

4. Shape on a board with floured hands, and use in any of the ways suggested in Nos. 367-70.

367 Grilled or Fried Meat Rissoles. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

Divide mixture No. 366 into eight equal portions, and pat and shape each into a flat rissole ½-1 inch [15-25mm] thick. Do not make them too thick, or the outsides will be hard before the insides are cooked.

GRILLED. Cook under a fierce heat until brown and then more slowly to finish.

FRIED. Brown in a little hot fat and finish the cooking more slowly. Keep hot while making gravy in the pan according to No. 80.

Serve either fried or grilled rissoles with fried or mashed potatoes, and any vegetable. Brown gravy or tomato sauce. Fried onions.

368 Baked Meat Rissoles. Cooking time 20-30 minutes. Temperature 450 F. Mark 8.

Use Recipe No. 366. The nicest way of baking is to wrap a thin rasher of streaky bacon round each rissole, fastening it with a tooth-pick or small skewer. Place on slices cut from a large onion and pre-cooked in a little fat for 5 minutes. Serve with fried potatoes and spinach, peas, beans, or tomatoes. Gravy may be made in the pan in the same way as for Roast Meat, see No. 80.

182 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK

369 Casserole of Pork Rissoles

Temperature 375 F. [191°C] Mark 5.

Use pork for the meat in No. 366, and flavour with a pinch each of ground nutmeg, ginger, cloves, and mace. Fry brown and put in a casserole. Fry in the same fat:

1 sliced onion

2 stalks celery, chopped

2 tomatoes, chopped

Add 2 Tbs. flour and mix well and then stir in ½ pt. [270ml] stock, 1 tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. pepper, and 2 Tbs. wine vinegar.

Pour over the meat, cover, and cook in a slow oven for ¾ hour. Serve with boiled or baked potatoes and cabbage or other green vegetables.

370 Meat Rissoles Jardiniere. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

Fry the meat rissoles as in No. 367 and serve surrounded with heaps of two or three different vegetables, such as diced carrots, peas, diced turnip, beans, etc.

371 Swedish Meat Balls. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

Quantities for 20-30 balls:

1 lb. [450g] lean raw beef or beef and pork mixed

¼ tsp. pepper

2 Tbs. onion, chopped and fried

1 large boiled potato, mashed

¼ tsp. ground mace

1 tsp. salt

4-8 Tbs. milk or water

Measures level. Mince the meat three times to make it very smooth. Add the other ingredients and shape into small balls. Fry in a little hot fat, taking care not to crowd them in the pan, and turning until brown all over. Put in a dish to keep hot. Pour 2-3 Tbs. water in the pan and swill it round. Pour over the meat balls. Serve with boiled or browned potatoes and any vegetable.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 183

372 Meat Balls in Tomato Sauce. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

Make according to No. 371 and, when cooked, put in ¾ pt. [425ml] Tomato Sauce, No. 92, and heat for a few minutes. Serve with mashed or boiled potatoes and spinach, peas, beans, or any green vegetable.

373 Grilled Meat Bails with Cheese. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

Make meat balls from Recipe No. 371, leaving out the onion, but adding 2 oz. [50g] grated cheese. Thread these on skewers alternately with mushrooms and small tomatoes and grill for 10-15 minutes. Serve with fried potatoes or Risotto, No. 551.

374 Meat Loaf. Cooking time ¾ hour.

Temperature 375 F. [191°C] Mark 5.

Make according to No. 366, adding a tiny speck of garlic for extra flavour. Shape into a loaf and bake in a moderate oven with a little fat round and a piece of greased paper on top. Remove the paper for the last 10 minutes to allow the top to brown. Make gravy in the pan in the same way as for Roast Meat, No. 80, or serve the loaf with Tomato Sauce, No.92. For serving, cut in slices about ¾ inch thick. Any vegetables are suitable.

375 Meat Shape to Serve Cold. Cooking time 2 hours.

Make according to Recipe No.366, and put the mixture in a greased basin, or stone jar, or tin with straight sides.

Cover with greased paper and steam for 2 hours. Turn out and roll in dried breadcrumbs, and cut in thin slices when cold. This cold shape is nicest if a little bacon can be used with the meat. Pork mixture No. 369 also makes a very good loaf, and so does a mixture of liver, sausage, and bacon.

184 THE PENGUIN COOKERY BOOK

USING COOKED AND CANNED MEAT

376 General Information.

Meat which has already been cooked needs very careful handling. If re-cooked, it is apt to be tasteless and needs additional flavouring, best provided by a well-seasoned sauce. I have already suggested, in No. 353, how to reheat roast meat. Cold roast, braised or boiled meat, and canned meat, such as corned beef or other whole meat, may be served with salad or hot vegetables, such as Browned Potatoes, No.456, or fried or roast potatoes, and a vegetable mixed with a well-flavoured sauce.

This is an opportunity to use some of the more elaborate vegetable dishes. Chutney, pickles, sweet pickled pears, pickled walnuts, or gherkins all add zest to this sort of meal.

377 Cold Meat Hash. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

Quantities for 4 helpings:

1½ C. Brown Sauce, # 72; or Curry Sauce, No. 77; or Tomato Sauce, No. 92

2 C. minced cooked meat

Measures level. Make the sauce and heat the meat in it without boiling. Make sure it is well seasoned. A little Worcester Sauce or Mushroom Ketchup improves the flavour. Serve with boiled potatoes and any vegetable.

378 Shepherd's Pie. Cooking time 20 minutes.

Temperature 450 F. [232°C] Mark 8.

Quantities for 4 helpings: Meat and sauce as for 1½ lb. mashed potatoes. No. 377

Put the meat and sauce in a pie-dish and cover with the mashed potatoes. Decorate the top by roughing with a

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 185

fork or piping potato through a forcing-tube. Bake in a hot oven until brown on top. This is always nicer if the potatoes are freshly cooked.

If the sauce and meat are heated before putting the mixture in the dish it can then be finished off under the grill instead of going into the oven.

379 Corned Beef Hash. Cooking time 10 minutes.

Quantities for 2-3 helpings:

1 c. diced corned beef

Fat for frying

2 c. diced cooked potatoes

1 small onion, sliced

1 Tbs. milk

Measures level. Mix the meat and potatoes. Fry the onion brown in the fat. Add the meat mixture and sprinkle over the milk. Stir well, and then leave on a very low heat until brown underneath. Fold over. Turn out and serve hot. Follow with a salad.

380 Red Flannel Hash.

Add ½ c. dried cooked beetroot to mixture No. 379.

381 Fricassee of Cooked Veal or Poultry. Cooking time 10-15 minutes.

Quantities for 3-4 helpings:

¾ lb. [375g] cooked meat

2 egg-yolks

½ Pt. [285ml] Medium Sauce, #69, made with meat stock or milk (1 c.)

Juice of 4 lemon

1 Tbs. chopped parsley

3 or 4 rolls fried or grilled bacon

Salt and pepper to taste

Pinch of nutmeg

Measures level. Heat the meat in the sauce and season well. Just before serving stir in the eggs and cook for a minute or two longer. Add the lemon and parsley and garnish with the bacon rolls. Serve with mashed potatoes and spinach, peas, or carrots.

/p185

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